I came back from Islay straight to Newcastle - 11 and a bit hours of travelling - and have spent today wandering the industrial estates of Middlesbrough (on the east coast quest), which would have been far more of a culture shock if all the gaps hadn't turned out to be full of flowers and butterflies. I did finally reach the sea, at Redcar, but it was really another river day - not that I saw much of the Tees either!